Continue developing your dog’s unique sense of smell and their skills at identifying and alerting on a special odour where-ever it might be placed. Further develop your teamwork and handling skills in this new sport. This course will be specifically for dogs who have already completed a nosework introductory course and understand the basic principles. Dogs with “issues,” or physical disabilities are welcome as each dog works with the handler alone and need not be comfortable in group situations. Nosework-Next Steps is a three week class ( 90 minutes sessions) and builds the odour recognition work begun in earlier Nosework classes.
When it comes to house-training an older dog many of the same concepts apply as with a puppy. The difference is often you are trying to undo a more rehearsed behaviour, rather than establishing a new one and so it may take a more regimented approach – especially at first.
It also pays to eliminate any medical issues – not only bladder infections that might result in incontinence but also your dog being on prescriptions with a side effect being excessive urination or sudden bowel movements.
You need to be consistent about meeting the dog’s physical needs and have a good set of plans in place to cover the general situations that arise day to day.
We can housetrain dogs because they instinctually don’t soil a den. An untrained adult doesn’t understand that where our den is. So we teach them our whole house is a den and set them up to go in the right place on cue by:
- Limiting access to small areas of the house – one room or one part of a room.
- Anticipating needs – times that they will want to go and take them there yourself.
- Making the act of going in front of you a rewarded one – both treats and freedom.
- Keeping a simple diary/chart of the times they go out – so family predict needs better.
PLAN ONE – For while the dog is the focus of attention—say in the lounge with you (but not when you have attention focused on something else).
Anticipate the times they will need to relieve themselves—just like babies—after waking, after meals, after intense activity, after long drinks. And take them out to the place you want to use. Sorry but you must go too—not place them out and shut the door. Keep them on a lead at first so there is a focus on the task, not a play time in the yard. Be a tree as much as possible so they are attracted to sniff and get on the task.
Have a cue ready to say quietly as they are actually going at first. After a few days try saying it as you get outside in anticipation of action. I recommend 3 treats for success—after all it makes me three times happier! Now they have earned freedom and can be let off lead too.
If there was no action within 5 minutes (even when on lead) then take the dog back inside and confine them as per plan two for 10-15 minutes before you repeat the process.
PLAN TWO – This is when you will be distracted and for short term confinement. A crate is seen by many dogs as a kind of indoor den and should be placed in a “people place” so they are not isolated. Other options are a tether attached to the skirting by a bed, baby-gating an alcove, an Ex-pen with bedding laid down or attaching a lead to your belt as you move around.
PLAN THREE – For when you go out or longer periods alone. This is about being realistic and is best if different from the short term option—move and then open the crate door and put paper down in a small easy-clean room or create an outside pen and kennel and leave them there.
PLAN FOUR - For when you find an “accident” in action – interrupt the dog with a sharp noise/spray and propel them outside – put on lead. If you didn’t see it, then you are too late! Be grumpy at the cleaning, not the dog. Growling now or rubbing their nose is cruel and most likely teaches the dog to seek better privacy—in the next room or behind the sofa.
I recommend clean-up with lots of water, then mild detergent and vinegar rinse. Do not use NOT Ammonia-based products like HandyAndy. These attract the dog to mark again over top. Some citronella deterrents can be sprayed to discourage remarking or a liberal dose of white pepper on a carpet spot discourages the dog from returning to one place at least.
At our weekend training venue Unit 4, 60 Kingsford-Smith Street Rongotai
Register interest for March 2018
First two sessions held at our weekend training venue: Unit 4, 66 Kingsford-Smith Street then a third session at a local park.
Register interest here
Getting the right routine established for your puppy or dog to follow at meal times is an easy way for anyone in the family to convey leadership- especially to a young dog. Yes you can eventually teach a puppy to wait or stay just by holding them back, but this is not the most efficient technique nor is it the recommended method used by good modern trainers. Instead we advocate working on teaching the puppy self-control. To get what they want (permission to eat) they learn through patience, not pushiness. With this technique even pre-schoolers, under close supervision, can be involved in a daily routine.
How do you achieve this? Initially the bowl is a guide to get your pup to sit by moving it above their head so they look up as you say a cue “sit.” Then introduce “Wait” or “Stay” Your other hand might also add a “wait” cue by making a stop sign as you start to lower the bowl towards the ground on the other side of your body. Then if the puppy remains sitting (say as you lower to waist height) mark the good behaviour with a “Yes” and give the puppy something FROM THE BOWL. Lift it above their head and start again – going lower over several repetitions until it gets to the ground and you would let the puppy know they can have the jackpot with an “Okay” or “Eat.”
But if they get up as the bowl is lowered then immediately lift it back over their head and say sit/wait. Like a see-saw as puppy’s butt lifts off the ground the bowl comes up out of reach and above their head. But if the butt stays on the ground the bowl gets lower. Once this is familiar with adult family members let the youngsters also practice.
With puppies it is also recommended that feeding is done inside – in the kitchen or near the hub of family activities. This is to help avoid resource guarding issues later – since it becomes clear to then no-one wants to steal their food and activity or movement around it can be ignored. Adding an extra tidbit as you pass sometimes adds an even better association. Then as the pup grows if it is necessary to change routines the basics are properly put in place.
Mondays to Thursdays.
Location: In Your Home
Cost: Initial session charge $160 Additional travel charge may apply. Options and Packages available.
Not all problems can be resolved with attending a group class. There are times when your dog’s issues would be best addressed by working with you and your dog alone, perhaps in your own home. An initial consultation with an experienced, qualified behavioural trainer is supported by written materials and tailored notes to help find a solution best fitted to your dog’s needs. Common issues we address by private consultation include house-soiling, destructive behaviour, barking, fence running, fearfulness and on-lead aggression to name just a few.
As arranged. Time slots available Tuesday-Thursdays
In Home, (travel charges may apply)
As arranged, time slots available weekdays
As arranged, time slots available weekdays Monday to Thursday
Cost: $360 pre-booked package or $80-$120 per session individual
We have a 4-5 week package to cover all the basics with you or can individually tailor puppy or older dog training to achieve the agreed goals. One-on-one sessions are focused into 40-45 minute blocks and can be pre-purchased at a package rate or arranged individually as you prefer for specific goals. The concentrated nature of one-on-one means we can accomplish much in a short time. Additional travel charges may apply for locations outside Wellington City.
Cost: New students $120, students returning this level $100